Climbing glossary

This page aims to describe terms and jargon related to climbing and mountaineering .

Also see:

• List of climbing topics - A list of wikipediaarticles relating to climbing and mountaineering.
• Climbing equipment - Article describing equipment used byclimbers.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

Ablation zone

The area of a glacier where yearly melting meets or exceeds the annual snow fall.

Abseil

The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.

Aid climbing

A form of rock climbing that requires artificial assistance, i.e. ropes, to ascend.

Alpine start

To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning,usually before sunrise.

Altitude sickness

A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as Acute mountain sickness, or AMS.

Anchor

A fail-safe attachment point for protection .

Approach

The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it isoccasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.

Arête

The outside corner of rock. See also dihedral .

Ascender

A device for ascending on a rope. A mechanical ascender is called a jumar .

ATC

A proprietary type of belay device . ATC stands for Air traffic controller.

B

"B"-grade

A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill . Now largely superceeded by the "V" grading system .

Back-clipping

A hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing . The belay rope is clippedinto a quickdraw in the wrong direction causing an increase in friction on the rope and an increase in the likelihood of the ropebecoming unclipped during a fall.

Bail

To give up on a climb.

Belay

Protecting a climber from falling using arope.

Belay device

A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay device exist,including ATC , grigri , Reverso, Sticht plate , eight , tuber , and the Munter hitch . Some belay devices may also be used as descenders .

Belay slave

Someone that volunteers for, or is tricked into, repeatted belaying duties without partaking in any of the actualclimbing.

Bergschrund

A crevasse that forms on the upper portion of a glacier where the moving section pulls away from the ice cap.

Beta

Advice and/or instructions on how to successfully complete a particular climbing route.

Beta flash

Ascent of a climb on the first attempt with some knowledge beta of that climb, with no falls or hangdogging . Also see on-sight .

Bolt

An anchor -point permanently drilled into the rock. [1]

Bomb-proof anchor

A totally secure anchor , or set of anchors. Also known as a bomber. Sadly, anchorsare often misclassified as such.

Bouldering

The practise of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.

Bounce

A deadly fall.

Bucket

A huge handhold.

Buildering

The art of climbing on buildings. Note that this is often illegal.

Buttress

A prominent feature that juts out from a rock or mountain.

C

Cam

1. To affix using counter-pressure.

2. A spring-loaded device used to place protection . See Spring loaded camming device .

Campus board

Training equipment used to build finger strength and strong arm lock-offs.

Carabiner

Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. Also known as crab or biner.

Chalk

A compound used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It isactually gymnastics chalk, usually magnesiumcarbonate . Its use is controversial in some areas.

Chalk bag

A hand-sized holder for a climber's chalk that is usually clipped or tied onto the climber's harness for easy access during aclimb.

Chock

A mechanical device, or a wedge, used to attach anchors into cracks.

Clean

1. To remove equipment from a route.

2. A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.

3. To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see redpoint .

Cleaning tool

A device for removing jammed equipment, especially nuts , from a route. Also known as a nutkey.

Climbing area

A region that is plentiful with climbing routes .

Climbing command

a short phrase used for communication between a climber and a belayer .

Climbing gym

Specialized indoor climbing centres. See gym climbing .

Climbing shoe

Footwear designed specifically for climbing. Usually well fitting, with a rubber sole.

Climbing technique

Particular techniques, or moves, commonly applied in climbing.

Climbing wall

Artificial rock, typically in a climbing gym .

Clipping in

The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection .

Col

A small pass between two peaks.

Couloir

A steep gully or gorge frequently filled with snow or ice.

Cornice

An overhanging edge of snow on a ridge.

Crack Climbing

To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not face climbing . See jamming .

Crag

A small area with climbing routes, often just a small cliff face or a few boulders.

Crampons

Metal framework with spikes attached to boots to increase safety on snow and ice.

Crank

To pull on a hold as hard as possible.

Crash pad

A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover hazardous objects in the event of a fall.

Crater

Hitting the ground at the end of a fall instead of being caught by the rope.

Crimp

1. a small but positive hold.

2. the process of holding onto a crimp.

Crux

The most difficult portion of a climb.

D

Daisy chain

A type of sling with multiple sewn, or tied, loops. In many situations this can be moreversatile than a normal sling.

Dead hang

To hang limp, such that weight is held by arm tension rather than muscles.

Deadman

A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbedat the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.

Deadman anchor

An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke .

Deadpoint

The apex of an upward dynamic move.

Deck

1. The ground.

2. To hit the ground, usually the outcome of a fall .

Descender

A device for controlled descent on a rope. Many belay devices may be used as descenders,including ATCs , eights , or even carabiners .

Dialed

To have complete understanding of a particular climbing move or route.

Diamox

A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness .Otherwise known as Acetazolamide.

Dihedral

The inside corner of rock. See also arête .

Downclimb

To descend by climbing downward, typically after completing a climb.

Dynamic rope

A slightly elastic rope that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged lessseverely by heavy loads. Compare with static rope .

Dyno

A dynamic move to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach. Generally both feet will leave the rock face and returnagain once the target hold is caught. Non-climbers would call it a jump or a leap.----

E

Edge

A thin ledge on the rock.

Edging

Using the edge of the climbing shoe on a foothold.

Egyptian

A climbing technique used to reduce tension in arms whileholding a side grip .

Eight

A belay device or descender . Named from its appearanceas the digit "8".

Eight-thousander

A mountain that tops 8,000 metres.

Exposure

State of openness with relation to the distance of a fall.

F

Face climbing

To ascend on a rock face using finger hold and edges, i.e. not crack climbing .

Fall

Undesirable downward motion. Hopefully stopped by a rope, otherwise see mountainrescue .

Finger board

Training equipment used to build grip strength and arm strength.

First ascent

The first successful completion of a route.

Fist jam

A type of jam using the hand. See climbing technique .

Fixed rope

A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing .

Flake

A thin slab of rock detached from the main face.

Flapper

An injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. A climber will usually just repair these with sticky tape.

Flash

To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt.

Follow

What the second does.

Fourteener

Mountain that tops 14,000 feet in the contiguous United States.

Free climbing

Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection .

Friction

Climbing technique relying on the friction between the sloped rock and the sole of the shoe to support the climber's weight,as opposed using holds or edges, cracks, etc.

Friend

A name brand of a type of spring loaded camming device (SLCD), sometimes used to refer to any type of spring loaded cammingdevice.

G

Gendarme

A pinnacle or isolated rock tower frequently encountered along a ridge.

Glissade

A usually voluntary act of sliding down a steep slope of snow.

Grade

Intended as an objective measure of the technical difficultly of a particular climb or bouldering problem. Moreoften is highly subjective, however.

GriGri

A belay device designed to be easy to use and safe for beginners because it isself-locking under load. Invented and manufactured by Petzl .

Gripped

Scared.

Grovel

1. To climb with obviously poor style or technique.

2. A climbing route judged to be without redeeming virtue.

Gumby

An inexperienced climber.

Gym climbing

Climbing indoors, on artificial climbing walls. This is typically for training but many people consider this a worthwhileactivity in its own right.

H

HACE

High Altitude Cerebral Edema - a severe form of altitude sickness . An often fatal form of altitude sickness, HACE is theresult of swelling of brain tissue from fluid leakage. Symptoms can include headache, loss of coordination (ataxia), weakness,and decreasing levels of consciousness including disorientation, loss of memory, hallucinations, psychotic behavior, and coma. Itgenerally occurs after a week or more at high altitude. Severe instances can lead to death if not treated quickly. Immediatedescent is a necessary life-saving measure (2,000 - 4,000 feet). There are some medications that may be prescribed for treatmentin the field, but these require that you have proper training in their use. Anyone suffering from HACE must be evacuated to amedical facility for proper follow-up treatment.

Hand Traverse

Traversing without any footholds.

Hangdog

While lead climbing , to hang on the rope or an anchor for a rest.

Hanging Belay

Belaying at a point such that the belayer is suspended.

HAPE

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema - a serious form of altitude sickness .

Harness

Climbing equipment used for attaching a rope to aperson.

Haul bag

A large and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown.

Headwall

The region of a cliff or rock face that steepens dramatically.

Helmet

Also known as a brain bucket. It can save your life, but only while worn.

Hexcentric

A protective device . It is a hexagonal nut attached to a wireloop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just termed Hex.

Honed

To be in peak mental and physical fitness for climbing.

Hook

1. Equipment used in aidclimbing .

2. A climbing technique .

I

Ice axe

A handy tool for safety and balance.

Ice screw

A screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system. The strongest and most reliable is the modern tubular ice screw which ranges inlength from 18 to 23 cm.

Indoor climbing

See gym climbing .

J

Jamming

Wedging a body part into a crack.

Jug hold

A large hold, also known just as a jug.

Jumar

A mechanical ascender .

K

Klemheist knot

An alternative to the prussik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.

Knots

Climbers rely on many different knots for anchoring oneself to a mountain, joining two ropes together, slings for climbing upthe rope, etc.

L

Lead climbing

A form of climbing in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb.

Lieback

Or layback. A climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on thefeet.

Locking carabiner

A carabiner with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.

M

Mantle

A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock inthe absence of any useful holds directly above.

Match

To use one hold for two limbs, or to swap limbs on a particular hold.

Moat

A crevasse that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation.

Mountain rescue

A friendly team of people that will come and rescue you after an injury or accident. Also see coroner .

Move

Application of a specific climbing technique to progress ona climb.

Multi-pitch climbing

Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.

Munter hitch

A simple hitch that is often used for belaying withouta mechanical belay device. Otherwise known as an Italian hitch or a Friction hitch.

N

Névê

Permanent granular ice formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles.

Nunatak

A mountain or rock that protrudes through an ice field.

Nut

A metal wedge attached to a wire loop that is inserted into cracks for protection . See hexcentric .

O

Off-width

A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams .

On-sight

A clean ascent, with no prior practise or beta .

Open book

An inside angle in the rock.

Overhang

A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical. See roof .

P

Pinkpoint

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope ( hangdogging ), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners . Also see clean and redpoint .

Pitch

The portion of a climb between two belay points.

Piton

A metal spike that may be hammered into ice or flaws in rock.

Plunge step

An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep angle snow.

Protection

1. Process of setting equipment or anchors for safety.

2. Equipment or anchors used for preventing falls. Commonly known as Pro.

Prusik

1. A knot used for ascending a rope.

2. To use a prusik knot for ascending a rope.

Pumped

1. To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the flexor digitalis, that forming even a basic grip becomesimpossible.

Q

Quickdraw

Used to attach a freely running rope to anchors or chocks .Sometimes called quickies.

R

Rack

The set of equipment carried up a climb.

Rappel

The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope. Also known as Abseil.

Redpoint

To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope ( hangdogging ). Also see clean and pinkpoint .

Roof

Horizontal overhang.

Rope

An essential item of climbing equipment .

Route

The path of a particular climb, or a predefined set of moves.

Runner

Another term for sling .

Runout

1. The span between two points of protection .

2. A long portion of a route without adequate protection .

S

Saddle

A high pass between two peaks, larger than a col .

Scrambling

Non-technical climbing.

Screamer

A long and loud fall .

Scree

Loose, broken rock that climbers can never avoid.

Second

A climber who follows the lead , or first, climber.

Serac

A large ice tower.

Sewing machine leg

The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as "Elvis Presley Syndrome", or"Disco knee".

Sharp end

The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber.

Side grip

A (usually vertical) hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull.

Sirdar

Head Sherpa mountain guide.

Sit start

Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. This is common on short sport climbing routes and in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb.

Slab

A relatively flat and featureless block of rock.

SLCD

Abbreviation for spring loaded cammingdevice , a type of protection device . These arebetter known by the term cam .

Sling

Webbing sewn, or tied, into a loop.

Smearing

To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe , in the absence ofany useful footholds.

Snow fluke

An angled aluminum plate attached to a metal cable. The fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor .

Solo climbing

Climbing without any protection .

Sport climbing

A form of climbing where grace and technical (or gymnastic) ability are considered more important than danger, exhilarationor brute strength. Sport climbing routes tend to be well protected with pre-placed bolt- anchors .

Spotting

An alternative to belaying commonly used during bouldering .A friend of the climber stands beneath them and prevents awkward falls or falls onto hazards.

Static rope

A non-elastic rope . Compare with dynamicrope .

Stem

The simultaneous use of two, widely spaced, footholds.

Sticht plate

A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots. Named after the inventor Franz Sticht .

Stopper

1. A wedge-shaped nut .

2. A knot used to prevent the rope running through a piece of equipment.

Summit

1. The high point of a mountain or peak.
2. Used as a verb to indicate that a person reached the top. e.g. I summitted Mt. Athabasca.

T

Top rope

To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb.

Tuber

A belay device.

Traverse

1. To climb in a horizontal direction.
2. A feature of a rock that allows, relatively, easy progress in a horizontal direction.

U

Undercling

A hold or flake that is upside down.

V

"V"-grade

A technical grading system for bouldering problems, invented by JohnSherman .

Verglas

A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes on rock. Hard to climb on as crampons have insufficient depth for reliable penetration.

W

Wand

A bamboo stick with a small flag on top used to mark paths over glaciers and snow fields.

Webbing

Hollow and flat rope, mainly used to make runners and slings .

Weighting

Resting by hanging on the belay rope.

Wired

To have the moves required for completing a climb memorized.

Woodie

A homemade climbing wall .

X

Y

Yosemite Decimal System

A numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs in the United States . The rock climbing (5.x) portion of the scale is the most common climb grading system used in the US.

Z

Zipper fall

A fall in which each piece of protection fails in turn.

Z-pulley

A configuration of rope, anchors, and pulleys used to extricate a climber after falling into a crevasse .

References

• Mountaineering:The Freedom of the Hills
• Mountainzone glossary A-L and Mountainzone glossary M-Z
• Climbing glossary from the US
• Climbing dictionary from Germany
• Glossary from the UK